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Tehran Journal

Billboards in Iran Say ‘Death to America,’ but Officials Say ‘Let’s Make a Deal’

American businesspeople met with Iranians last week at a restaurant in north Tehran.Credit...Mehdi Ghasemi for The New York Times

TEHRAN — Wearing business suits set off with sneakers, the American executives trailed a young guide along the narrow sidewalks of the capital of Iran, once branded by the United States as part of the “Axis of Evil.”

Their destination was one of Tehran’s most luxurious restaurants, where Iranian officials and business consultants greeted the visitors with open arms and the Pharrell Williams song “Happy” blasted from the sound system.

“Everybody loves us here,” said Ned Lamont, a digital services entrepreneur and former politician, holding a glass of carrot juice offered by one of his hosts.

Just as the Obama administration and Congress were wrangling over details of a nuclear agreement with Iran last week, the group of 24 executives were touring the country on a fact-finding mission.

Of course, the organizers rushed to explain, this was by no means a business delegation.

“We are tourists,” said Dick Simon, a member of the Young Presidents’ Organization, a network of business executives. “But naturally many in our company have the potential of getting involved here, as they lead some very significant businesses,” he said, referring to his fellow travelers.

American companies are barred from doing business in Iran, which remains under a regimen of sanctions aimed at pressuring the country to curtail its nuclear program. The sanctions, which cover financial transactions as well as a host of industries like petroleum and shipping, have put a stranglehold on the Iranian economy, which is struggling with inflation and shortages of food and consumer goods.

With the United States and Iran currently negotiating a nuclear deal under which those sanctions would eventually be lifted, some American companies are now hoping for new business opportunities in a country that has long been off limits.

The visit to Iran by the American group, which included venture capitalists and business executives from a range of industries, including real estate, health care and insurance, was organized by individual members of the Young Presidents’ Organization. Last week’s trip was the group’s third to the Islamic republic.

“There was a waiting list. The prospect of a changing Iran is very interesting,” Mr. Simon said.

At the function Thursday night, the delegates sat at tables decorated with cards marked with topics of conversation: “Real Estate,” “Diplomacy,” “Luxury” and “ICT,” for information and communications technology. The women in the group wore head scarves, as is obligatory in Iran.

“I should be at ‘ICT,’ I think,” said Mr. Lamont, whose Connecticut-based company provides video and data services to college campuses, “but I think the ‘Diplomacy’ table will be more interesting for now.”

Mr. Lamont and the others in the group arrived in Tehran last week after touring ancient sites near Shiraz, a city in the south, under the watchful eyes of government minders.

“They don’t want us to get in any sorts of trouble, or have an incident, but we have been mostly free to go around,” said Mr. Lamont, who like other members of the group was bubbling with enthusiasm over the hospitality of their Iranian hosts.

In the Shiite holy city of Qum, the group sat down with a reform-minded ayatollah who told them that Iran was on the verge of major change.

“I asked, what about the ‘Death to America’ slogan?” Mr. Lamont said, referring to the phrase that appears on many banners across the country and has long been shouted at public demonstrations. But the cleric responded that the slogan was from a different era. “He told us, ‘This is the new Iran,’ ” Mr. Lamont said. “Such messages are hopeful and different.”

At the restaurant on Thursday, Cyrus Razzaghi, a prominent Iranian business consultant, and other speakers extolled the potential of the Iranian economy for adventurous American investors.

“In the end these are not normal tourists of course, they are wealthy, powerful and influential Americans,” Mr. Razzaghi said. “Besides from giving them a taste of Iranian culture, I felt they would also be interested in Iran’s huge market.”

Iran’s deputy minister of telecommunications, Nasrollah Jahangard, peppered the audience with statistics, saying Iran was one of the most connected countries in the region.

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The entrepreneur Linda Mason and Alexander Simon, son of Dick Simon, with Iranians in Laleh Park in Tehran.Credit...Mehdi Ghasemi for The New York Times

“The number of smartphones is expected to be doubled to 40 million on a population of nearly 80 million,” he said. “We have 3G running and 4G networks under development; we are moving forward fast,” Mr. Jahangard said in English.

His words seemed to pique the interest of some of the executives. Christopher Schroeder, a venture capitalist, said he saw some promise in the country’s technology sector. “I have met with young women who are running Iran’s versions of Amazon and Groupon. They could really get somewhere in the future.”

However, it was clear from the questions about the economy and the influence of hard-liners that many obstacles remain.

“When I look out of that window,” said Richard Cohen, a New York-based real estate developer, pointing at the Tehran skyline, “I see 18 cranes. Only one is working. I have never seen so many unfinished high-rises in my life. What does that symbolize?”

Since 1995, sanctions have barred Americans from doing business in Iran, where a substantial middle class represents a potentially lucrative market for foreign companies. Hopes that the nuclear framework agreement made on April 2 might lead to a broader deal by the end of June have raised expectations of an opening of the Iranian market. Still, most companies are waiting for a final deal before seriously considering investing here.

“Fact is, now we are not even allowed to,” Mr. Simon said.

Despite the recent talks between Iran and the United States and the prospect of better relations, Iran’s revolutionary ardor was still visible.

In Shiraz, at the tomb of King Cyrus, a major tourist destination, the group passed a billboard bearing a quote by Iran’s first supreme leader, Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini.

“The world should know that all Iran and Muslims’ problems are due to the politics of aliens and of the USA. Muslims generally hate aliens and specially the USA,” it reads in English.

The executives, however, said they were struck by the warm reception they had received in Iran.

“All in all it seems to me the Iranians really want to reconnect with the world,” said Jennifer Adams Baldock, a former executive in the printing industry. “They want to move on.”

A correction was made on 
April 23, 2015

Because of an editing error, the Tehran Journal article on Monday, about a visit to Iran by American executives who hope the lifting of economic sanctions will open up business opportunities there, misstated the role of one of the visitors, Dick Simon, in the Young Presidents’ Organization, a business network whose members organized the trip. Mr. Simon is a member of the group, not a co-founder.

How we handle corrections

A version of this article appears in print on  , Section A, Page 6 of the New York edition with the headline: Billboards Say ‘Death to America,’ but Officials Say ‘Let’s Make a Deal’. Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe

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