North Korea does not have a reputation for culinary excellence. While there is increasing choice if, say, you want to eat out in Pyongyang, it’s a long way away from the world-renowned cuisine you can find south of the DMZ.

The South Korean government has taken a lot of criticism over the years for its national branding initiatives. Its “Globalization of Hansik (Korean cuisine)” campaign, launched in 2009 and costing around $20 million, was no exception.